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Rem 700 Action Wrench

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  • Rem 700 Action Wrench

    Its getting close to the time when I will be sending my parts collection off for rebuilding into my M40/A1/3/5ish.

    I want to get my varmint barrel off my 1968 receiver. Im considering buying an action wrench to do this at home.

    Whats the best tool manufacturer for this?

    Thinking I was only going to ever need a wrench once I was going to ask to borrow one but with the DepTaylor stocks coming out I see need for perhaps a second use building my Bartlein barreled M40 clone.

    Ive got a good vice, Im reasonably mechanically inclined, how much of an ass ache is unbarreling a 1968 receiver?

    Better/cheaper to find a local smith and have him unscrew the barrel from the receiver?

    Just send barreled action to builder and let him deal with it? This makes sense but trying to cut down on some of the crap Ill be shipping to him.

    Couple of options....

    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod25119.aspx

    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod26568.aspx
    Last edited by pmclaine; 06-03-2016, 08:08 AM.
    "...But they would never find anything to beat the old Springfield ...the long sleek streamline, very slim but with potent bulges, all in the just exactly right places to give it that pugnaciously forward-leaning, eager look that marked the Springfield. Beside it, the M1 looked like a fat old man puffing with a lack of training...the two most beautiful things made in America were the ax-handle and the clipper ship? ...they should have added one more thing: The Springfield '03 rifle..."

  • #2
    I would go with door number 2 the Surgeon one. The big deal is in the vice really. I have used a pipe wrench with a thick piece of leather with resin on it. I have also used a piece of aluminum bar through the action.

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    • #3
      I would send it to a smith. Its a nice tool to have, but if its a one-shot deal, it doesnt worth it. My smith charge half an hour labor (35$) to remove a barrel.

      Some members here do their own work, maybe you can ask one of them to do it for you as they probably have the tools to do it.

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      • #4
        I have used ''option 1'' in the past and it worked fine. I do remember on one action we had to apply a little heat from a propane torch to break it loose.

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        • #5
          There is a gunsmith at my club I'm sure is capable. I only run into him once in a blue moon though. I'll try to look him up than probably go option 1 if I can't find him.

          Thanks for the replies.
          "...But they would never find anything to beat the old Springfield ...the long sleek streamline, very slim but with potent bulges, all in the just exactly right places to give it that pugnaciously forward-leaning, eager look that marked the Springfield. Beside it, the M1 looked like a fat old man puffing with a lack of training...the two most beautiful things made in America were the ax-handle and the clipper ship? ...they should have added one more thing: The Springfield '03 rifle..."

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          • #6
            If you're going to have further uses for it, go with Wheeler. Midway is a good source. Ol' Larry even has some good videos on YouTube that shows ya how to do it. Don't "Bubba" a good action.

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            • #7
              I have the Wheeler one and I won't have any use for it. Used once. I felt it was better then the one shown in Brownells as it has a screw that goes thru the wrench and into the floorplate boss on the receiver to prevent any slipping.. Can't locate that screw at this moment, but if you're interested I can save you a few bucks. Here is the midway one>
              http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearc...+action+wrench
              It's the one on the left in the pic. ‚ÄčIf interested, PM me your email addy and I'll send pics of mine.
              Last edited by m1sniper; 06-04-2016, 06:50 AM.

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              • #8
                For removing a factory barrel, I would only recommend one of the designs like the Wheeler or the first link you posted. The other style that uses the bolt lug raceway is great for custom barrels that haven't been torqued / glued, but I would be afraid of damaging the action by trying to remove a factory barrel with one.

                One additional tip, if you are trying to remove a factory barrel and it's not budging, a relief cut on the recoil lug does wonders! Yes you damage the factory recoil lug, but sometimes it's worth it.

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                • #9
                  That bolt is 1/4-28.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by roughhewn View Post
                    That bolt is 1/4-28.
                    Thank you.

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