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870 Mk I Bayonet Adapter

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  • APINorway
    replied
    Thats one hell of a good looking 870 !!
    and yes, I’m on of not vax stabbed , soon they are comming for us I guess…

    Leave a comment:


  • pmclaine
    replied
    Yes it is only right this is updated...





    On the Range....





    Those were fantastic times back than.

    Buying guns, building clones, looking for parts, being able to say "Screw it!" and spend $1000 on something stupid but wanted......

    Havent worked since mid November now going through investigations and a discipline process to be fired for not taking the mandated vaccines.

    First co-worker was officially fired on Wednesday with a Dishonorable Discharge and that will be my fate in two more trial boards.

    Oh well times change but right and wrong doesnt.

    Leave a comment:


  • BoltTrash
    replied
    Just trying to keep this thread alive. Maybe this year ( and remember, Santa knows EVERYTHING!).

    BT

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  • pmclaine
    replied
    This has been my guide to GI wood care...

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    Your "recipe" makes sense in what it is intended to do.

    I use plain cold pressed just for its ease of maintenance while understanding it lacks a lot in the weather proof dept. I enjoy the rifle care time though.

    My current shot gun stocks Im working....

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    I dont usually do so but these are being "sanded in" with wet/dry paper ending at 1500 grit.

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  • m1sniper
    replied
    "Salad dressing mix". I was hanging out at my LGS. While they were a typical gun store all the owners were pretty big into military surplus rifles. Which also meant they had a ton of GI manuals. I came across a 1950s dated GI manual that pertained to NM M1 Garands. The mix is a 1 to 1 to 1 mix of boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and distilled white vinegar. Shake well, apply liberally to stock. Let sit about 10-15 minutes, wipe down real well. (If you let it sit too long it will get tacky, you don't want that) Let sit overnight then repeat. Continue until the stock won't accept any more of the mix. Me personally, only a couple of times had to do 3 or more coats.
    I am one who can appreciate some of the stocks you see that come out looking like fine furniture, sanded out to 1000 grit and such,, but that's not my style. I prefer no sanding, and will only steam dents or dings if they are bad and if the stock warrants it. I have been using this mix since the early 80s on all 28 or so US wood/steel rifles I own.
    The breakdown: The turpentine thins the linseed oil so it penetrates deeper. I learned from an old time contractor when I was hired to oil beams in a new timber frame house we built that linseed oil actually attracts mold/mildew. (you may have seen white stuff on GI stocks that have been pulled out of very long term storage.. That is white mold. The vinegar in my salad dressing kills mold and also cleans the wood..
    The aroma of the mix kinda reminds me of a salad dressing and hence the name I use.
    As for a washer, the only pic I've seen of the swivel mounted on the top of the stock for the M37 with side swivel is that one I posted above from one of the books. No clue if a washer was used, no clue what exact swivel or mount was used, can't tell from the pic. The stud I'm using has a black washer on it and I do plan to use it. I had thought about inletting a Springfield 03 lower swivel but decided I'd rather start with just a single hole for the QD stud, and if I find out later something else was used it won't take much to change it out.
    Here is a thread I posted on the M14 forum that may interest you. Original pics were stolen by photobucket, new ones posted later in the thread. I wasn't working on any stocks at the time, but had a nice 4"x4" chunk of American Black Walnut to show what the mix does.:
    Qs re: my "salad dressing" mix Update 2/16 pics | M14 Forum

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  • pmclaine
    replied
    m1sniper

    What is your "salad dressing mix" of choice?

    Im pretty much just cold pressed linseed oil.

    Do you have something historical the troops came up with?

    Been wondering if I should use a sling swivel washer on my rear sling. I dont think I have seen anywhere that the USMC guns had washers but they had the luxury of the tax payer buying their replacement stocks.

    Leave a comment:


  • m1sniper
    replied
    And just like the original barrel, mag spring and mag end cap from the donor gun are going to be in the shadow box I build along with the other versions of the duckie,, I bought another stock so I'm not disturbing the original one and when finished with my "salad dressing" mix, I'll mount the swivel on the top back and install on the gun.
    Attached Files

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  • m1sniper
    replied
    That sling has a stencil marking on it (IIRC off hand "Co B") but so faint I can't make it out for sure. I cleaned up the rust and am using that sling for the same reason you mentioned. Came off a real deal SEAL M37.. The other part that's extremely rare, and is the ONLY one he has found and only one I've seen is the side sling swivel that the sling is attached to. The screw that goes thru the yoke has a head shaped like a Harris bipod/sling swivel QD set up. I had to straighten the screw to make it work,, and the QD sling swivel on the the sling was marked "Herters Waseca". Even tho it has a broken "leg" on it,, again, I have the pics to show it came off a real deal SEAL gun. Took a good while but found another vintage Herters 1 1/4 QD swivel and plan to mount the rear swivel on the top of the butt stock.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by m1sniper; 05-29-2021, 10:08 PM.

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  • pmclaine
    replied
    Originally posted by m1sniper View Post
    Well,, just to show this, here are how some of the M37 parts were demilled. He has found remains of possibly 15 duckbill sets to date. So, seriously, keep your fingers crossed.. And BTW, if you want that 870 set of parts let me know and I'll see what he wants for it.
    Man the sling in picture 5 and the bill in picture 7.....all of it history saved!

    The screws and the collar for the barrel extension would be worth saving. I could see myself coming up with an adapter missing screws.

    I will use the collar that came with my Remington extension kit but if that cleaned up nice it would be cool to have saying "came from a true MK I". It would make a "clone" legit like saying an AK is US made because it has part A. B. C from the USA while everything is else is a parts kit from Romania.

    Leave a comment:


  • m1sniper
    replied
    Well,, just to show this, here are how some of the M37 parts were demilled. He has found remains of possibly 15 duckbill sets to date. So, seriously, keep your fingers crossed.. And BTW, if you want that 870 set of parts let me know and I'll see what he wants for it.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • pmclaine
    replied
    Originally posted by m1sniper View Post
    My Buddy that digs thru the Crane dumping ground "pile" found this one last Sat while digging.. So,, odds are there will be more, and likely ones in better shape based on the M37 duckbills he has found. Keep your fingers crossed.
    Im crying a little...

    Thats just mean that they went dead center with the cutter.....

    Still lots of salvageable stuff from that though........extension nut, the screws to mate the adapter halves

    Leave a comment:


  • m1sniper
    replied
    My Buddy that digs thru the Crane dumping ground "pile" found this one last Sat while digging.. So,, odds are there will be more, and likely ones in better shape based on the M37 duckbills he has found. Keep your fingers crossed.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • m1sniper
    replied
    https://www.gunbroker.com/item/895853284

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  • pmclaine
    replied
    I got a sling here from Steveu.

    Most of the pictures seem to show a standard cloth OD sling.

    I tend to think of them as generally on the short side but the pictures indicate they work. Ill find out.

    There is a seller on the CMP forum that has NOS 67 or there abouts dated M7s may pick one up, not in a hurry. The bayonet is for picture purposes only.

    My intention with this is primarily shot something in the 0's or even 4,6,8.

    I think I saw the SEALs favored 4 in VN.

    In agreement with you "its a clone".

    Random Guy through some good info from the Canfield book in my SnipersHide thread.

    I also have a contact that has built/owns some of these Im in contact with. Hoping I get some good info from him regards the barrel perhaps a lead on the mount.

    Leave a comment:


  • BoltTrash
    replied
    By the time you cut this 30 inch barrel to 21 inches, you'll have a straight cylinder bore. Most, if not all of the 20 inch Police barrels Remington offered are choked 'Improved Cylinder.' Modern plastic collared shot shells, with bird or buck shot tend to shoot a tighter pattern than the barrel in marked for, i.e. Modified pattern from a Improved Cylinder, Full from a Modified etc. I had plastic US Gov't issued 12 ga. 2-3/4 inch 'OO' High Brass rounds that I patterned in my 870/20 inch rifle sighted slug barrel/choked Improved Cylinder that looked like I was shooting slugs, or produced very tight patterns at 12 yards.

    Your new barrel, when cut, can be either 'back-bored' for choke, or being a heavy walled barrel as you describe, you could upgrade your barrel and have it threaded for flush fitting (not a extension type) interchangeable Rem-Chokes, that will let you select a choke of your choice. There are companies that specialize in doing this and back-boring and I wouldn't use just anybody that can cut a barrel to do that type of job. Pick a gunsmith/jobber, send the barrel out and let them do it all. Once and done, that's the way I would go. I think you'll want to stick with a Improved Cylinder choked bore if having the barrel 'back-bored', sometimes called 'jug-choked.' Someday you may want to shoot slugs and shooting them in a Modified or Full choke barrel isn't advisable. (My) Bottom line, again... it's a clone.

    It will be interesting to see what your new book has to say on this subject.

    You've gone this far, so you still need a bayonet and sheath.

    What length is the web sling? I'm thinking a M14E2 length sling would be the ticket. You'll recognize them as they come (if complete) with two (2) 'J' Hooks and are ~72 inches in length.

    Leave a comment:

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