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Remington Walnut "Police" Stock Mods for M40 Repro

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  • Remington Walnut "Police" Stock Mods for M40 Repro

    OK, time to get away from the drama and back to this forum's intent.

    Managed to pick up a Remington walnut stock for the 700 and looking to maybe mod it for a hybrid M40/M40A1 build.

    So the current varmint barrel channel will definitely need to be opened up. Has anyone done this themselves? There doesn't look to be too much extra wood at the barrel channel to allow for errors in opening it up.

    And I may sand the tip down so it's less angled and more rounded.

    Anyone done something similar or can provide advice in general?

  • #2
    I think you'll regret opening the barrel channel enough to fit an A1-contour barrel in there. I've got one of those stocks that seems to have been opened a little. It is very thin on the sides...

    Comment


    • kft101
      kft101 commented
      Editing a comment
      Hmm, maybe I should keep the barrel contour to the original M40 then? From what I've read, it's either the factory varmint contour, or a slightly heavier variation of it.

  • #3
    One of 033!'s posts on another website has some, as usual, very great photos, one of a USMC hogged out M40 stock prototype to which apparently an M40A1 profile barrel was inserted. It's a Frankenstock - and something I would not do - I'd stick to a varmint profile barrel...

    http://m14forum.com/bolt-action/4332...0-scope-8.html
    jack1911

    Comment


    • #4
      I did this exact project...
      I purchased a police stock and used it for my M40 project. I had to open up the barrel channel just a little bit to get the Varmint profile to free float, don't think there is any way I could get my A1 barrel to fit it, the sides are just too thin. I rounded the tip to make it as close to an M40 as I could by going off pictures...let me know if you have any questions!
      DW
      Click image for larger version

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      • pmclaine
        pmclaine commented
        Editing a comment
        Looks great!

      • kft101
        kft101 commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks for the info and pics, DW!

        How did you open up the barrel channel and round out the fore-end? I'm thinking about just going slowly with sandpaper.

    • #5
      I'm not a very good photographer, but here is another pic of the completed project...
      DW

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      Comment


      • kft101
        kft101 commented
        Editing a comment
        Great lookin' rifle!

        Did you have to do any fitting for the buttplate to the stock? The one I have is not fitted at all. The alignment is a bit off and the profile of the buttplate just doesn't match up to the stock.

    • #6
      Thanks for all the feedback, guys. Looks like trying to go for an M40A1 barrel contour is a no-go. Will stick with the Rem varmint contour then.

      Any recommendations for barrel providers?

      Comment


      • #7
        I had to do a little bit of sanding to get the butt-plate to line up perfect, but not very much. I just used sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood to keep everything square and even.
        I also wrapped sandpaper around a wood dowel for the barrel channel.
        DW

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        • kft101
          kft101 commented
          Editing a comment
          Good info and great results!

          Did you have to reposition the butt-plate? The one on mine is a bit misaligned (it's sticking up a bit and canted to one side at the top). Since it's a wood stock, I'm guessing it won't be as simple as loosening the screws, repositioning the butt-plate, and tightening the screws back in?

      • #8
        Hm...did you get your stock with the aluminum butt-plate installed? It kinda sounds like the holes are off a little bit?? Mine had a weird two piece plastic plate when I got the stock, I got the aluminum plate separately. The holes in the stock were a little bit too small and I had to enlarge them ever so slightly for the screws for my aluminum butt-plate to fit in the holes. I'm wondering if maybe someone did this to your stock before you got it and got the holes a little off perhaps??
        DW

        Comment


        • kft101
          kft101 commented
          Editing a comment
          DW, yes, I got the stock as-is, with the aluminum butt-plate already installed. Don't know if the previous owner swapped it out or not, but I think since these "police" stocks were made to be more utilitarian than pretty, and these would have been put together by hand back in the 1980s, that such "blemishes" would be common and expected.

          I'll upload a couple of photos of the butt-plate misalignment and not-perfect fit below.

          Thanks!

      • #9
        Photos showing the slight misalignment and need for fitting of the butt-plate to the end of the acquired Remington "Police" stock.

        For those with familiarity of these stocks, is this common?

        And any suggestions for a fix? Does the aluminum butt-pad allow for slight adjustment of its position without having to alter the screw holes?

        Comment


        • SDWhirlwind
          SDWhirlwind commented
          Editing a comment
          The wood stocks that came on the first 700P's had tenite buttplates, the 2pc ones with 2 screws the same distance ctc or close like their aluminum counterparts and those 2 screws hold a removeable center about 3.5" top to bottom. These tenite butt plates like the earlier aluminum 16601's were installed on stocks first and then finished sanded to fit. That is why all the pics you see of the early 700's the aluminum plate is not anodized on the sides like they are on the face. I have 8-9 16601's laying around and all are different sizes in length and width. Some vary as much as 3/8" in length and 3/16" or so in width from one to another. Some wider midway, some with a different shape at toe being more rounded or more pointed. That's why it is a pain to find one to fit, especially with the mid 80's ADL and 700P stocks being bigger overall in the butt end then the early to mid 60's 700 stocks were. Think Dep Taylor even mentioned that once and why he had a bunch made up then installed them and fit them prior to sanding and finishing them. Hope this jibberish makes some sense? Sometimes what I want to say doesn't come out especially in type like I intend.

        • kft101
          kft101 commented
          Editing a comment
          Dennis, makes perfect sense. From everyone info, looks like the aluminum butt-plate on the stock I have was put on after it left the factory sometime then. Oh, well, guess I'll be doing some fitting. Anyone know the best way to shape aluminum? A steel file?

        • pmclaine
          pmclaine commented
          Editing a comment
          I just fit one last weekend.

          If the overhang is not too bad your sand paper/sanding block and hand sanding will work.

          Go with less and move on to more only if necessary.

      • #10
        I large belt sander is the answer . It can be done by hand but it will be slow tuff time consuming process . When finished you’ll be proud to say you did it .

        Comment


        • #11
          I've done many of them and I did them all by hand. a belt sander takes the material off quick but leaves little room for error.

          Comment


          • #12
            I have done several of these too, and enjoyed the projects. I do use a belt sander to reshape the front of the stock, to get the approximate M40 nose shape cut in. I bought a belt sander from harbor freight that sits on a table and it works fine, cost like $35. But I only block sand not belt sand the butt of the stock and the barrel channel by hand, not with a belt sander. I do have a small hand held osculating sander I sometimes use on the butts to speed it up, but not too much or you will regret it. On the first one I did, I made the mistake of trying to hurry the butt area by using a belt sander, big mistake there, once you take off too much there is no way to go back. Like Delta said, use a wooden dowel covered with sandpaper in the barrel channel, like broom handle size, and block sand the butt by hand. Don't hurry, take your time. Have the right frame of mind or work on something else. I start by working on the aluminum butt plate first. I put blue painter tape on the wood so as not to touch it with the file, and then carefully file the aluminum plate with a fine toothed small mill bastard, until I get it where I want it, and then start to block sand the wood. You need to find someone that will do the black anodizing in your area, here they charge about $15-$25 per aluminum butt plate to do that. The butt plates need to be completely stripped and totally clean before re-anodizing. They have a weird plastic or some sort of sealer on them that needs to be completely removed or they won't re-anodized. I strip them with a very caustic stripper and them wire brush them thoroughly before sending it out to the anodizer. I have not stripped the wood on the ones I have done previously but i think I will use a stripper on the wood on the next one I do. Trying to sand off the original Remington spray on finish on these is very tough and next time i think I will just strip it and then go for a nice linseed oil finish like the original M40s had.
            jack1911

            Comment


            • #13
              If reanodizing isn't an option for you I went with satin black rustoleum spray.

              Ive been impressed with how well it has held up over two years

              when the USMC got them shiny in VN paint was the answer.

              "...But they would never find anything to beat the old Springfield ...the long sleek streamline, very slim but with potent bulges, all in the just exactly right places to give it that pugnaciously forward-leaning, eager look that marked the Springfield. Beside it, the M1 looked like a fat old man puffing with a lack of training...the two most beautiful things made in America were the ax-handle and the clipper ship? ...they should have added one more thing: The Springfield '03 rifle..."

              Comment


              • #14
                Originally posted by Piteously Uninformed View Post
                I have done several of these too, and enjoyed the projects. I do use a belt sander to reshape the front of the stock, to get the approximate M40 nose shape cut in. I bought a belt sander from harbor freight that sits on a table and it works fine, cost like $35. But I only block sand not belt sand the butt of the stock and the barrel channel by hand, not with a belt sander. I do have a small hand held osculating sander I sometimes use on the butts to speed it up, but not too much or you will regret it. On the first one I did, I made the mistake of trying to hurry the butt area by using a belt sander, big mistake there, once you take off too much there is no way to go back. Like Delta said, use a wooden dowel covered with sandpaper in the barrel channel, like broom handle size, and block sand the butt by hand. Don't hurry, take your time. Have the right frame of mind or work on something else. I start by working on the aluminum butt plate first. I put blue painter tape on the wood so as not to touch it with the file, and then carefully file the aluminum plate with a fine toothed small mill bastard, until I get it where I want it, and then start to block sand the wood. You need to find someone that will do the black anodizing in your area, here they charge about $15-$25 per aluminum butt plate to do that. The butt plates need to be completely stripped and totally clean before re-anodizing. They have a weird plastic or some sort of sealer on them that needs to be completely removed or they won't re-anodized. I strip them with a very caustic stripper and them wire brush them thoroughly before sending it out to the anodizer. I have not stripped the wood on the ones I have done previously but i think I will use a stripper on the wood on the next one I do. Trying to sand off the original Remington spray on finish on these is very tough and next time i think I will just strip it and then go for a nice linseed oil finish like the original M40s had.
                i just stripped an RKW stock last week. stand by for an ass ache and lots of scrubbing.

                That DuPont product is no joke.

                I used Dads brand paint stripper. It burns your skin so you know it's good. Still took two full days.

                some have good results with Citristrip I guess.

                ill do a complete post of my stock strip/finish when I'm done.

                this particular stock is a 1968 varmint I'm doing in pure tung oil.
                Last edited by pmclaine; 04-10-2018, 08:15 PM.
                "...But they would never find anything to beat the old Springfield ...the long sleek streamline, very slim but with potent bulges, all in the just exactly right places to give it that pugnaciously forward-leaning, eager look that marked the Springfield. Beside it, the M1 looked like a fat old man puffing with a lack of training...the two most beautiful things made in America were the ax-handle and the clipper ship? ...they should have added one more thing: The Springfield '03 rifle..."

                Comment


                • #15
                  Click image for larger version  Name:	2E70C6A3-B148-4CE0-A003-8C39FB2C9D45.jpeg Views:	2 Size:	1.17 MB ID:	35397

                  I have installed over 100 16601 buttplates onto my stocks now. I have tried everything and for me, a handheld random orbital sander has provided the best results.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • deltawiskey
                    deltawiskey commented
                    Editing a comment
                    That's the most beautiful piece of walnut I've ever seen!!! Wow!
                    DW
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